The inner life of Oaxaca Issue 30/1 February March April 2011 www.oaxacatimes.com Every year, more than 10,000 visitors come to the city during Photography: MATTHARDING that week, and as many are expected this year, according to the Tourism and Economic Development office in Oaxaca. Most of these tourists are Mexican students and family members who live in other parts of the country and come to visit their relatives.Sunbathing at the beach, observing religious masses, or enjoying an ice cream at the Zócalo… continues on page 3 2 www.oaxacatimes.com This Month Feb-Mar-Apr 2011 Enjoy learning Spanish Contents Semana Santa.......................................... 1 Mind your manners................................ 5 Play Ball! ................................................. 6 Classified Ads......................................... 7 Presumed guilty...................................... 8 Epicurean Dining in Oaxaca.............. 10 ICC Fast, Fun & Effective!!! 1. THE INSTRUCTORS 105 Escaleras del Fortín Phone 50-123-59 www.iccoax.com Map & City Guide................................ 11 have advanced academic credentials to teach Spanish as a second language and are carefully selected and supervised. Others schools train individuals from community, regardless of education, 2. THE TEACHING APPROACH uses advanced techniques to go beyond the grammar and structure of Spanish and includes a more funttional and communicative approach to learning. The focus is on “speaking“ Spanish. 3.THE CULTURAL INTEGRATION COMPONENT of the program helps you meet and mix with Mexicans while you get involved with Mexican culture, this reinforcing you use of Spanish at the same time. 4.THE SCHOOL has achieved impressive results at all levels of fluency. This is why many top US universities send students to ICC for college credit. 5. THE MANY ADDED EXTRAS www.oaxacatimes.com Director: Lic. Yolanda García Caballero EDITOR: Brian Lyle G. DESIGNER: Rodolfo Gomez Garcia WEBSITE Design: Warren Lyle COLLABORATOR: Francisco Toledo include home stay placements, field trips, lctures, Mexican festivities, weaving workshops with indigenous women, Mexican cooking classes, salsa dance lessons, free internet access and knowledgeable staff who are happy to help you with any other needs you may have during your stay in Oaxaca. For advertising call Yolanda Garcia at (951) 501 23 59 Letters to the editor: oaxacatimes@yahoo.com Oaxaca Times es una publicación mensual, editada por el Instituto de Comunicación y Cultura A.C. Escaleras del Fortín No 105, Col. Centro, C.P. 68000, Editor Responsable: Yolanda Garcia Caballero, Número de Certificado de Licitud de Título (9211). Número de Certificado de Licitud de Contenido (6457). Distribuido por el Instituto de Comunicación y Cultura A.C. Escaleras del Fortín No. 105, Col. Centro, C.P. 68000. Telefono: 501-2359. Imprenta Proveedora Gráfica de Oaxaca S.A. de C.V. Colón No. 605, Colonia centro, C.P. 68000. La reproducción total o parcial de textos o material gráfico de esta publicación sin la autorización por escrito del editor, queda estrictamente prohibida. Los artículos firmados son responsabilidad de sus autores. Las menciones de productos, marcas, servicios, precios y firmas comerciales son gratuitas y sólo tienen carácter de servicio informativo para los lectores, por lo que no implican responsabilidad ni compromiso alguno por parte de los editores. http://www.oaxacatimes.com E-mail: info@oaxacatimes.com 105 Escaleras del Fortín 501 23 59 3 Feb-Mar-Apr 2011 Or in the park of La Soledad church. How will you spend Semana Santa in Oaxaca? This traditional Catholic holiday, which commemorates the last week in the life of Jesus Christ, begins on Palm Sunday (April 17) and culminates on Easter Sunday (April 24). Generally a somber holiday, Semana Santa in Oaxaca has a more lively and celebratory feel. But many foreigners also choose the beginning of April to travel to Oaxaca. In fact, Semana Santa is the second busiest season for Oaxacan hotels, after Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead) in the fall. At the luxurious Hotel Camino Real, each of the 91 rooms was reserved between 2- 6 months in advance and small bed and breakfast with few rooms, are booked a year before. Travel agencies throughout Mexico and the United States are given the schedule of events months in advance and actively promote trips. As travelling that week has become increasingly popular, few hotels won’t increase their rates and low season prices are not likely to start before the Monday after Easter. As thousands of visitors pour into Oaxaca, many locals take off to the beaches, Puebla, the Isthmus, or Chiapas. Since Thursday and Friday before Easter are paid vacation days and Easter Sunday is a national holiday, most workers, including government employees, receive the whole week off with pay. Therefore, for many Semana Santa is the annual week of vacation. However, many Oaxacan religious families prefer not to travel on Saint Days and stay at home. Observance of Semana Santa in Mexico dates from the Spanish conquest, but as with other traditional Catholic holidays, elements of indigenous customs have been incorporated throughout the years. In some parts of Mexico, self-flagellation and real crucifixions (without nails) are practiced. In all pueblos, silent religious processions occur almost nightly. In Oaxaca, church members perform elaborate re-enactments, rehearsed for months, and streets are taken over by festive carnivals, religious artwork exhibitions, and fireworks. Vendors sell refreshing springtime treats like Aguas frescas, fruit flavoured waters, Raspados, shaved ices, and delicious Dulces regionales, regional sweets and candies made of coconut and tamarind. If you chose Oaxaca to celebrate Semana Santa, you won’t lack options. And whatever you decide to do, you won’t be alone! Some highlights: For a complete listing of Semana Santa events, visit the tourist office on Av. Juarez 703. www.oaxacatimes.com Title The Lent season After the Carnival, comes the spiritual time of Lent. Lent is the period of 40 days between Ash Wednesday and Easter. The word for Lent in Spanish is Cuaresma, it comes from cuarenta, meaning forty, because Lent lasts forty days (The six Sundays are not counted). For Catholics this is traditionally a time of abstinence meant to correspond to the time Jesus spent in the wilderness. Many people give up something for Lent. In Mexico it is customary to abstain from eating meat on Fridays during Lent. In local markets of Oaxaca you can buy vegetarian tamales (tamales de verduras). Mexican Food for Lent: Some foods are traditionally associated with Lent in Mexico. It is very common to eat seafood on Fridays - Another food commonly eaten during Lent is empanadas de vigilia. These empanadas are made with a flour pastry shell and stuffed with vegetables or tuna. Nopales (cactus leaves) are also part of the diet.Nopales salad is refreshing and very healthy. March 9 to April 24 is the lent season this year- In Oaxaca every Friday from 9 to noon time of the lent season there is an old tradition for university girls, to walk to the Juárez park, strawl around and receive flowers from young men. Marimba music or band music are part of the Llano Fridays. TRADITIONAL OAXACAN & INTERNATIONAL FOOD M. Alcalá St. Open from Tuesday to Sunday from AM to midnight Fridays & Sat. until AM For Reservations call, Credit cards welcome 4 Clubbing This Month Also check the Casa de la Cultura on Colon and Santos Degollado for alternate activities. Sunday April 17th- Palm Sunday (very different celebration in the town of San Antonino Castillo Velazco) -located 30 minutes away from the city-Blessing of the palms at all city Discover the secrets behind black pottery, cotton and wool textiles. Visit indigenous markets, a 16th century ex-convent and archeological zones 501 23 59 www.oaxacatimes.com Churches. Parades throughout the city. Figurines made of Palm leaves are sold on the streets. Thursday 21 thVisit to 7 churches from 5:PM Friday April 24th- Good Friday´6PM Religious procession-Main streets of downtown area Feb-Mar-Apr 2011 8pm: La Soledad Church: Procession of the Holy Virgin around the church and musical performance Glorious Saturday-23 of April Sunday April 14th- Easter Sunday Easter mass at all churches. Carmen Alto Church: feather dance, processional, and fireworks. Delitious Pizzas and pastas Tuscany Traditional Home Cooking I TA L I A N R E S TAU R A N T 100 Pino Suarez St. Phone: 516 11 22 Open from 1 to 11 PM / Sundays until 10 PM / Closed on tuesdays 5 Feb-Mar-Apr 2011 www.oaxacatimes.com World This Month Mind your manners A few subtle shifts in speech and attitude will help you get along It’s a busy morning in the Zocalo and folks are lined up five-deep to get their newspapers. The young woman is tall, blond, and obviously not a native Oaxaqueña. When she reaches the man selling newspapers she pulls out a telephone card. Holds it in her hands and says, quite loudly in English. “Give me one of these.” The newspaper vendor pulls out a phone card and the young woman proceeds to hand him a 20 peso bill. He takes the bill in his hands turns it over once, turns it over twice, and appears to be memorizing the serial number. The young woman squawks, “There’s nothing wrong with my money.” Ah, but in Mexico, along with a healthy respect for the peso, there is an equally healthy respect for good manners. And from the moment the young woman stepped up to the counter she was, in native custom, and this is the custom we care about, extremely rude. In a country where not everyone has running water, or even a high school education, how you comport yourself and behave towards others has far more importance than what kind of car you drive. At least in the day-to-day conduct of business. a really beautiful rug, but just not for you. The Mexican economy is as bad as in many countries of the world, be aware and do not dress fancy to visit markets. Do not wear gold earrings, or in general gold jewerly Take only the money you might need and do not take credit cards or passport with you in the market or in little towns. Hello and Goodbye Court and Spark Many of us arrive in Oaxaca knowing little Spanish. The culture shock of being in an environment where you can’t even read the street signs can be disorienting. But the fastest way to get your feet on the ground is to start to learn the little niceties. This means getting down your Hellos and Goodbyes and Please and Thank-you. Also a fine How are you doing? Is the perfect way to get your feet on the ground. Even if you don’t have enough command of the language to ask the newspaper vendor if he has a telephone card for you. Everyone should learn how to say please – por favor. And thank-you – muchas gracias. You can never go wrong with either phrase. If you are a woman and traveling alone, even if only for a taxi cab ride, chances are you may be in for a little bit of romanticizing. The Mexican people are romantics at heart, just watch any telenovela for fifteen minutes to catch a glimpse of imagined intrigue, and there is a certain courtliness to their attentive displays of affection. “Linda, guapa, chica,” don’t take any endearments as such either seriously, or as offense. However, if some barracho, (drunk) is crude enough to make a grab for you, it is perfectly acceptable to act highly offended. North American and European men need to know that a mild flirtation with a Mexican woman is not out of the question, just don’t expect too much, too soon. Oaxaca is still a very conservative environment. So despite the up-to-the-minute fashions, bared navels, and piercings, there is a more traditional sense of morals at play here. In the end, one of the best ways to acclimate yourself to your environment is to take some Spanish language and culture classes. Mastering a few simple phrases, working on increasing your ability to conduct yourself in society will reward you with the opportunity of gaining a deeper insight into the rich Oaxacan culture. You can fill your suitcases with pottery and textiles, but the kind of genuine friendships that arise through communication take work. If you don’t have the time for studies, then by all means, master the phrases that allow you to get through the day, along the way you’re sure to win some smiles. Mexicans are very sociable with visitors, they love to give and to receive. -Cariño quiere cariño- If you recieve love, you have to give love in return. If they are nice to you, you have to be nice to them. In the marketplace You’ve read in the guidebooks that you should be prepared to bargain and bargain hard for the goods that you want. But before you get into a head to head negotiation, first recognize that once that negotiation has started it is presumed to end with your purchasing said item. Unless you seriously want that lime-green rug with the pink flowers on it, don’t start bargaining. Many gringos, early on learn the phrase, “no me gusta”, which means “I don’t like.” The rug seller, tortilla lady, huipil weaver, or face painter, does not want to hear that you don’t like what it is they are offering. Don’t ever use the phrase “no me gusta,” in a restaurant or in the market. What you really mean to say is that you really, really like that lime-green rug, but it just doesn’t go with your current decorating scheme. In other words, it’s A World where “Fatty” is not an Insult You are in the marketplace along with half a million other folks and just trying to move along. The man in front of you weighs all of 400 pounds and you watch as he is approached by a friend who throws his arms around him, kisses him, and cries, “Gordo, mi amigo!” Try getting away with calling your Aunt Thelma, “Fatty” at the next family reunion and chances are you won’t get a warm response. In Mexico people call it like it is, and “Fatty, Skinny,” and everything in between are accepted terms of endearment. In the market, when a seller wants to get your attention chances are they may call you white girl, or white boy, don’t take it as an insult. They just want to make sure that you know who they are. 6 www.oaxacatimes.com Life Month Style This OR BAGUETTE FREE DRINK Feb-Mar-Apr 2011 Free BUY A CLUB SANDWICH Mezcal PLAY BALL! with first drink M.Alcala . Next to Sangre de Cristo Church 416 García Vigil St. Email: desestresseoax@gmail.com http://www.nightlifeoaxaca.com/desestresse-/ MARCH APRIL Saturday 9 Sunday 10 Sunday 20 VERACRUZ PUEBLA Tuesday 22 Wednesday 23 Thursday 24 Friday 15 Saturday 16 Sunday 17 CAMPECHE REYNOSA Tuesday 29 Wednesday 30 Thursday 31 Friday 22 Saturday 23 Sunday 24 MINATITLAN Official Schedule of Play YUCATÁN aditional Unique & tr od Mexican fo tortillas Home made lsas and hot sa ALL NATURAL!!! Emilio Carranza 1206 col. Reforma Ph. 515 09 83 folkartoax@gmail.com 7 Feb-Mar-Apr 2011 HOUSING LA CASA DEL ENCANTO en Oaxaca: 5 Mexican style houses with one or two BRs,for one or 2 people. Fully furnished. Complete kitchen,cable, TV,high speed Internet access,phone,safety box,purified water,solar heated pool,panoramic view. Weekly cleaning service(optional laundry service) parking ,gardens,patio,terrace,palapa,su ndeck.Rates, $250 US per week and up. Special long term rates.Ph-Fax (951)5201067,5202044 E mail: gilkarl@ prodigy.net.mx Centrally and quietly located. Eight bloks away from Zocalo. Two bedrooms, possibility of extending it to three, small study, kitchen with utensils and equipment, bathroom, terrace. Includes cable TV, wireless internet, electricity, gas, sufficient water (tank with 5000 liters), $ 5,000.00 mexican pesos per month. Available. If interested, please email sol_naranja_52@hotmail.com or 044-951-113-66-21 Comfortable apartments 5 blocks from Zocalo.One-two bedrooms,kitchen,bath,living/ dining room.Fully furnished. 410 Arteaga St..Ring doorbell Ĩ Phone, 5-16-50-56 villamaria22@hotmail.com www.villamaria.homestead.com./ villamaria.html BEAUTIFUL STUDIO FOR RENT. 130 sqm in Xochimilco (midtown) neighborhood. All facilities(hall 6x10) $600 US per month. mayoralcj@hotmail.com FURNISHED ROOMS 4 Blocks Away from The Zocalo $150 pesos (13 US ) per night. Contact us, garmuz@hotmail.com APARTMENT FOR RENTThirty two sqaure meters, patio, hot water, WIFI, kitchen, bathroom, queensize bed, refrigerator, microwave, cable. $330 US - 044-951-134-94-93. 5165650. azulprofundo13@yahoo.com.mx .Rento Depto.32 m2, agua caliente, WIFI, cocina, baño, cama queensize,frigo, microonda, cable, Patio, $330 US. 044-951-134-94-93. 5165650. azulprofundo13@yahoo.com.mx FOR RENT small house on Avila Camacho St.Between Colon and Guerrero.10 blocks from the Zocalo.2 bedrooms,bath, kitchen,living room,phone, internet. For info call,5148738,Cell phone,04495112266247 Email, kurioca868@hotmail.com FOR SALE OR RENT Houses or apartments in various parts of Oaxaca for sale or rent with or without furniture. Call Patricia. Phone, 1324723 Movil, 951-5192847, 951-122-3353. Venta y renta de casas amuebladas y sin amueblar en varios puntos de la ciudad. Llame a Patricia al, 1324723. Movil, 951-5192847, 951-122-3353 Fully furnished apartments in colonial house. 2 blocks to Santo Domingo church. Call 951-5010214 or 044 951 1568275 Furnished apartments for rent in a Oaxacan beautiful colonial house. 4 blocks off The Zócalo. For info call Call the following cell phone, 9511568275. 52-951-5010214. www.oaxacatimes.com We offer 10 studios and 2 one bedroom apartments, beautiful, completely furnished and nicely decorated. Located 10 minutes walk from the Zocalo in a tranquil and secure neighborhood, still historical center. Each unit has its own, equipped kitchenette, dinner, living area, private bathroom, one or two beds (twin, double, queen or king size, depending on the unit). Amazing roof top, common open living room, garden, garage. All utilities and WiFi included. Rent between 350 and 500 usd. Contact vero_coronel@hotmail.com Telephone for messages (if you leave your e-mail or telephone number we’ll contact you) + 52 951 51 6 90 73 or cell 044 951 119 50 76. Bungalows for rent, perfect for long - term rental. Fully furnished and all services includes ( TV cable, wireless internet, electricity, gas and water). Bungalow access through beautiful garden. Safe and quiet neighborhood. Good location for public transportation, supermarkets , shopping mall and more services. For more information call 5160304 cell phone 0449511456307 or email: gorch4@hotmail.com. FOR SALE ¡LIVE IN YOUR OWN PARADISE WHILE RECEIVING INCOME! Complex with 6 bungalows, pool, palapa, gardens, all furnished and already in service in the best zone of Oaxaca. e-mail: direccion.enc@gmail.com FOR RENT IN SAN FELIPE DEL AGUA CHARMING 3BR HOUSE AND 1 BR BUNGALOW IN COLONIAL STYLE. COMPLETLEY FURNISHED, ALL SERVICES. TO BE RENTED TOGETHER OR SEPARATELY. PANORAMIC VIEW.SEE: http://www.paginasprodigy.com.mx/vbkandt/ or contact Sra. Vera at (951) 520-1839 and cell: 044/01-951-547-0899 or e mail vkandt@hotmail.com A green oasis in Oaxaca! Studios & Duplex or 2 bedroom apartaments. Fully furnished cleaning and all utilities provided. Weekly and monthly rates. quiet, safe, idyallic garden setting.English spoken. Adults only. For information contact with Don fernando o Sra. tere at 01 951 51 44 062 in Mexico. from USA & Canada (011 52 951) 51 44 062 or email: cafe0728@hotmail.com or call cell. 044 951 130 0691 Very nice apartment in colonial Jalatlaco neighbrhood. 2 Bdms. 1 large bathroom., kitchen and a lovely patio. $300 US, For information call: 5-15-67-13 or visit us at, 217 Niños Héroes St. Jalatlaco. 2 Bedrooms for rent shearing an apartment . Clean & safe. Ut. included and Internet,.Market, supermarket and laundry mat one block away. 10 minutes from Zócalo. For Inf. call, 2322222 FURNISHED APARTMENT FOR RENT WITH ALL UTILITIES INCLUDED. One large Bd. Double bed with bedding,kitchen with all appliances, TV, bathroom with hot water 24hrs, internet and garden, Very clean and new.Quiet & safe neighborhood with commercial centers,transportation taxi and bus,barsrestaurants,sport clubs, near by. 15 minutes walking distance from downtown area. 302 Pensamientos street between Almendros & Eucaliptos street. In Colonia. Reforma. Info contact: with José Alberto AT: pepe018@hotmail.com Mobil Phone: 951-1787419 Classified ThisAds Month Fully furnished apartments conveniently located, 5 blocks from the main square, www.apartment.galeon.com Contact Gerardo, 044/951/156/2893 galdeco@gmail.com Furnished one BR apartments in colonial house. Internet. 2 blocks from Sto. Domingo church, call 044-951-156-82-75 or 951 50 102- 14 APARTMENT FOR RENT!!, LOCATED IN THE BEAUTIFUL COLONIAL JALATLACO, just 5 minutes from the downtown (Santo Domingo Church and Zocalo), it has two floors, 3 Bds, big terrace with a perfect view, big patio, full equipment furnished and nice kitchen, high speed wireless internet and TV. For info contact: Hermes, English spoken, hermesito81@hotmail.com Cell: 011-52 55-43549134 MEXICO dial 045-55-435-491-34 New architect designed rustic style house in the foothills of Cerro San Felipe. Scenic views, two large bedrooms, large desks, open terraces, screened windows, fully-equipped kitchen, telephone, DSL, TV. Located ten minutes by bus of car from Oaxaca´s historic center and two minutes walk from San Felipe Ecological Reserve. This quiet house offers and ideal vacation home for hikers, nature lovers, birdwatchers, mountain bikers, writers , artist, or those who simply want to relax while enjoying both the best of Oaxaca City´s cultural life and tranquility of San felipe village. Short and long term rentals. all services included. For more info call (951) 520 2442 or write to casalasterrazas@ yahoo.com MEDICAL Specialist on crowns, bridges and dental implants: University of Michigan. Dr. Angel Gómez Reyes. #312A Bustamante Street. tel.5164959. Email: gomezagr@hotmail.com or visit www.oaxacadental.com Allergy Specialist and Pediatrician: Dr Rodolfo García Caballero. 808 Alcalá Street.Tel: 5132600. Profesional Dentist, Cynthia Robles. 1204-B Independencia Ave. Open 10 to 2 PM &4 to 8 PM. Saturday 10 to 2 PM Ph, 5147046, Movil, 044 951134 9493 MISC English Language 12 Step Meetings Colon #518 (corner Manuel Doblado)AA: 7:00pm Monday & Thursday, 1:00pm Saturday OA: 5:30pm Monday Contact: Helen 540‐8137 or Irving 133‐6279 All Friends of Bill Welcome. ARQUETIPO Contemporary dance under the direction of Alberto Revilla TEATRO JUÁREZ 703 Juárez Avenue 11 and 12 of March 8:30 PM $70 pesos entrance. Tickets available at the window of Teatro Juárez ery deliv e m o H 8 Travel This Month www.oaxacatimes.com Entertainment Weekly lists among twelve documentaries that “changed the world,” such films as “An Inconvenient Truth,” “The Cove,” “Supersize Me” and “Fahrenheit 9/11.” While their impact on the entire worldcould be debated, there is no doubt that these serious (and seriously entertaining)films played an important role in raising awarenessaround the issues of climate change, dolphin slaughter, fast food and Bush’s war on terror. And it can be argued that a film alone changes nothing – like the proverbial tree in the forest -- but if a filmis remembered by viewers after they leave the cozy, popcornpunctuated comfort of the theater, if the entertainment translates into discomfort and noise -- it is the viewers whocan begin to make the change in whatever world is their entire world. This is what “Presumed Guilty” (“Presunto Culpable”) is banking on. The new Mexican documentary filmed by two student/lawyers, exposes the absurdity of the justice system through unprecedented real-time camera access to the courtroom. It has traveled the world in film festivals from Madrid to Dubai, winning 15 awards from audiences and judges, and will premiere in several cities in Mexicoon February 18, to almost as much fanfare as “Harry Potter” and “Tron.” A check of the Cinepoliswebsite, shows “Presunto Culpable” as one of the top trailers, one of the most commented facebook posts, and its logo splashed across the page with the words “If after seeing it, we do not shake up our justice system, then we are all guilty.”(from Alejandro González Iñárritu, director of “Babel,”“21 Grams,”“AmoresPerros” and most recently “Biutiful”). In “Presunto Culpable,” the dramatic footage of court proceedings for Antonio Zúñiga, a young man falsely accused of murder, is riveting in part for the entertaining cast-perfect roles of the real-life protagonists, and in part because we find that even after all we know, even after Feb-Mar-Apr 2011 all we hear and see and read, we are still surprised to experience just how very, very broken the Mexican justice system is – when we are face to face with it, under the camera lights in real time. “This cannot be,” we say. This premiere marks the first time that Cinepolis, the largest chain of theaters in Mexico, is participating in the distribution of a film; and precisely because they believethat “Presunto Culpable” and its viewers, made angry enough by what they see, have the potential toeffect real change. Roberto Hernández and Layda Negrete, the young married lawyers/students aiming for their PhDs in Public Policy at Berkeley who filmed “Presunto Culpable” hope to raise enough funding for the movie to send it to every corner of Mexico. They are hopeful that if enough people see the truth exposed by their cameras, they may join the movement for changes in the justice system -changes like filming interrogations and trials, like having police lineups and using real forensic evidence. Serendipitously timed to coincide with a renewing awareness in Mexico of the possibilities for change (after a 2008 constitutional amendment that allows for oral trials by 2016), if the film achieves the unlikely for a documentary in Mexico, and actually makes a profit, the proceeds will be donated to RENACE, a nonprofit organization well known throughout Mexico for their work in the justice arena. And profit or not, the film has its heart set on change. For more information on the film and how you can support its mission (and perhaps change the world!) see www.presuntoculpable.org or write contactopresuntoculpable@gmail.com The author of this article was falsely incarcerated in Ixcotel State Penitentiary in Oaxaca in the fall of 2003, and is currently living in New York, where she is a volunteer for the cause of “Presunto Culpable”. 10 FOOD This Month www.oaxacatimes.com Feb-Mar-Apr 2011 Epicurean Dining in By Dick Rothschild No doubt about it, dining at one of the cafés and restaurants which girdle the Zocolo has its charms. The endless procession of street vendors, musicians and exotic assortment of strollers lends an air of theatre and excitement to the dining experience. But when you sense you have had enough noise and commotion and the oversized portions of food are beginning to take their toll on your waistline, you’ll be pleased to learn of a refuge, a quiet, restorative restaurant nearby. Only a few blocks East of the Zocalo, at 319 Guerrero (on the north side of the street), is the new Italian café – bistro, Epicuro. It may require a sharp eye to find, though, because its entrance, like the café itself, is purposely understated. Only a modest sign slightly larger than two feet square identifies the door. The entrance hall, a long white high-ceilinged space, conceals more than it reveals of the dramatic bar and dining room beyond it. The dining room, a great square space with strong structural elements is painted green and has a soaring ceiling surmounted by a large skylight. On floors of polished black concrete square mahogany finished tables and chairs are scattered, with enough space between them to allow conversation without being overheard. This sense of privacy is enhanced by nostalgic music at low volume, mostly show tunes of the thirties and forties. The size and height of the room itself could be off-putting were it not for the softening effect of padded pillowed banquets lining the walls, on which a combination of prints and contemporary artwork are displayed. The overall effect is not perfect, more a work in progress which seems headed in the right direction. Epcuro’s menu bills itself accurately as “ Comida Mediterranean Sana y Sabrosa” (mediterranean food, wholesome and delicious). While perusing the menu’s food offerings my wife and I each ordered a glass of Valpolicella Classico DOC, a blended red wine from Itlay’s Veneto District. Neither of us are wine experts but we found it full bodied and delicious. Epicuro offers a number of other Italian reds, a Sangiovese, a Bardolino, a Sicilian Nero D’Avola and a couple of Lambrusco’s as well as three whites, an Abruzzo, a Pinot Grigio and an Asti Spumante. Unfortunately none of these others are available by the glass. Expanding the offerings by the glass would be a welcome improvement. Now on to the food. On the regular menu chef, Christhian offers a modest selection of appetizers, salads, pastas and sopas, meats (including steaks and roast beef) and seafood. In the regular printed menu is an insert on which is typed each “Platillo del dia” (dish of the day). From this list we split an order of “Enslada mista organica con queso”. One order is ample for two. My wife ordered “Espagueti a la matriciana” (spaghetti with a sauce of tomato, pork cheek, olve oil and pecorino cheese). I, longing for a piece of red meat, ordered the “Filete de res al grill con verdura salteada” ( a grilled beef filet with sautéed vegetables) .Before they arrived we were presented with a complementary “amuse bouche,” , tiny bruschettas. Both main course dishes were perfectly prepared, delicately seasoned and the portions were manageable. We sampled both of the deserts offered on the ‘dish of the day’ menu, the “Brunet de chocolate” (a classic chocolate flan) and the “Semifrio al sabaione” (a structure made of sticks of semi frozen ice cream and zabaglione). Both were tasty. Prices are not low but are reasonable given the quality of the cuisine. Epicuro is the three month old brainchild of Valter Epifaia a friendly Genoa native who moved to Oaxaca late last year. Like a baby bird, Epicuro is still a bit awkward, just testing its wings. Drop in some evening soon to offer it the encouragement is justly deserves. 11 www.oaxacatimes.com Feb-Mar-Apr 2011 Map 1. Zócalo 2. MACO Contemporary Art Museum 3. Alameda 4. Tourist Office 5. Carmen Alto Convent 6. House of Juárez 7. Plazuela del Carmen Alto 8. Santo Domingo Cultural Center 9. Santo Domingo de Guzman 10. Rufino Tamayo Museum 11. Central Market 12. San Juan de Dios Church 13. Science & Technology Museum 14. San Felipe Neri 15. Cathedral 16. M. Alcalá Theatre 17. Plaza de la Danza 18. La Soledad Church 19. Merced Church 20. Guelaguetza Auditorium 21. Post Office 22. Observatory 23. Planetarium 24. Central de Abasto 25. Alvarez Bravo Photography Center 26. Philately Museum 27. Pochote Movie Theatre 28. Camino Real Hotel 29. Nuevo Mundo Coffee Roaster 30. USA consulate 31. Canadin consulate 32. 1 st. Class Bus Station. Taller T ll d dell O Orfebre f b workshop Since 1987 Fine handcrafted Pre Hispanic, Colonial and Filigree jewels in silver and gold The best jewelry store in Oaxaca where artisans r transform gold and silve into artistic jewels 206 Alcalá St at the corner of Murguía St 205 Alcalá St at the corner of Matamoros St Ph.: (951) 514 23 86