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Food & Travel around the world
Maaemo
Explore epicurean inspirations; from hidden gems to perennial classics, from
simple delights to refined pleasures. THE ADDRESS Magazine shares some of
their food and travel discoveries to be included on your must-to-do list. Join us
on a journey from Barcelona to Warsaw.
Explore and Enjoy!
MAAEMO
Oslo, Norway
its first ever mention in the prestigious guide,
becoming the first, and only, restaurant in
the Nordic countries to be so honoured. The
fact it has maintained both stars to this day
is testament of the owners’ obsession with
providing faultless service matched by utterly
exceptional meals.
Owned by a Danish head chef and a Finnish
sommelier, the restaurant’s name derives
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Prepare for a dining experience like no other.
Norway’s ground breaking Maaemo offers
a truly inspirational gastronomy not to be
missed.
In 2012, just 15 months after opening,
Maaemo was awarded two Michelin stars in
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Maaemo
Photo: Hilary Walker
Photo: Tuukka Koski
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Horn Please
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Vasalissa Chocolatier
Vasalissa Chocolatier
Vasalissa Chocolatier
from the Finnish language and
means Mother Earth. The Norwegian
terroir has until now been a relatively
unknown treasure of the international culinary world, but it is something that Esben Holmboe Bang,
the Danish head chef, is passionate
about. Esben was listed in Time
Magazine’s 100 Most Influential Chefs
in the World in 2013.
The cuisine uses 100% organic,
biodynamic and wild produce, of
which 95% comes from Norway, and
85% of which is sourced from within
a radius of 100 kilometres from
Oslo. Featuring local flora and fauna,
Maaemo’s focus is on retaining all
the natural flavour and quality of
the raw ingredients. Waiters are
schooled on the area, the supplier,
and sometimes even the farm where
the produce originates.
Try the 10-course affair, which in fact
consists of over 20 servings once the
chef's extras are added.
Pure Norwegian flavours are
delivered with great precision. The
exceptional tasting menu strips
Norwegian food back to its bare
essentials, before recomposing it in
an entirely new manner. Flavours
focus on letting the quality of the
produce shine, and combine with
Esben's characteristic use of acidic
and sweet undertones that seem to
intensify them.
A meal at Maaemo will take guests
on a breathtaking culinary tour of
Norway, one that carries them from
the temperate climes of the southerly Hvaler Islands, to the cold and
pristine waters of the West Coast,
and on to the expansive inland
wilderness of Røros.
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The cooking is of the highest level,
intelligent and sublime, original and
intricate. Some meals comfort; others
push the boundaries of the culinary
arts in new and exciting directions.
Maaemo succeeds in doing both.
Appetisers may include frozen cow’s
milk, salsify pickled in juniper, red
cabbage gel with horseradish, a traditional porridge with reindeer heart
and brown butter, a cornet of chicken
liver cream with dried chanterelle gel,
grilled cucumber and parsley, and an
oyster emulsion served in a beautiful
dish with oyster shells.
Other dishes include reindeer with
Jerusalem artichoke and Nordic muesli
with Swedish truffle foam, blue cheese
from Eggen Farm with black trumpet
gel, buttermilk sorbet with mountain
herbs, fried rye bread cream with a
disc of mead gel, burnt marzipan and
wheat beer vinegar, brown butter ice
cream, birch macaroon, and brown
cheese with last year’s strawberry.
Do not miss one of the patented
Maaemo classics, an utter thing of
beauty: a beautiful bowl filled with
branches of spruce with a thick and
juicy langoustine from Føya placed
on top. Before it is eaten, the waiter
pours a pine infusion over dry ice in
the bottom, creating a smoke that
covers the table like an incredibly
looking blanket that smells of pine. It
is one of the most dramatic dishes we
have ever experienced. Executed to
perfection, the stunning presentation
is breathtaking.
The carefully curated wine pairings
are some of the most imaginative
anywhere. A wine is treated as a
crucial part of the dish. Pontus
Dahlström's talent is without doubt
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world-class: each and every pairing seems to
be as close to perfection as it gets.
The striking kitchen is in a glass box floating
above the dining room.
If there is such a thing, the must-see restaurant
offers life-changing fare.
www.maaemo.no
HORN PLEASE
Melbourne, Australia
But good food is just part of the story here. The
dining room is playful and airy and features
portraits from India, Hundu proverbs painted
on the walls, and – of course – horns. The walls
are also adorned with Indian studio portraits
collected by the owners. Local artist Rebeccah
Power has painted her own versions of the
portraits that hang next to the photographs.
Together, they help produce a delightful
smart-casual atmosphere.
Simple but stylish pendant lighting by Volker
Haug, complete with neon fabric cords, hangs
above the bar wood counter. Bright pink Tolix
stools stand out against the bar's black and
white tiles.
Classic Bollywood films are projected, silently,
onto the white walls at dinner time.
www.hornplease.com.au/
VASALISSA CHOCOLATIER
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Established by the mother-and-daughter team
of Dadi and Federica Marinucci, the chocolaterie combines a chocolate-making legacy
left behind by Abrascha Benski. Dadi’s father
was the original founder of Argentina’s famous
Cabsha chocolate brand. Clients will discover
a careful selection of top quality ingredients,
the world’s best processing techniques and
an aesthetic element from Dadi and Federica’s
artistic backgrounds.
Vasalissa has established itself as a chocolatier of distinction, garnering a reputation
for making some of the best bonbons in
Argentina. It boasts a wonderful selection of
chocolates of all sorts: milk, dark, white, as
well as a multitude of fillings that range from
passion fruit, to caramel, to rose.
The chocolate is truly amazing, whilst the
chocolate truffles are the best in Buenos Aires.
The chocolate ginger truffle is divine. In addition to chocolates, they also offer a selection of
macaroons in glorious and delightful colours.
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Named after the popular painted slogans that
decorate the back of vehicles found all over
India, Horn Please is an apt name for an Indian
restaurant.
It offers a concise and considered menu
consisting of an informal selection of family
favourites and street food-inspired plates. The
selections are fresh, created from the highest
quality ingredients and stone-ground spices,
cooked in the unhurried Indian fashion.
To start, the absolutely must try is papdi chaat.
This is a favourite of little roadside stalls in
Mumbai, sort of an Indian nacho platter. It
consists of a colourful bowl of crisp deep-fried
wafers, cubes of just cooked potatoes and
chickpeas, complemented by sweet mango,
house-made mint and coriander, and yoghurt
chutneys.
The butter chicken, made with fenugreek and
paired with garlic naan, is one of the standout
dishes. While the menu changes regularly, the
butter chicken is a staple that stays and it is
worth returning for this dish alone
Mind-blowingly fantastic, the homemade
kulfi ice cream is the must-try and ideal
conclusion for any meal here. Served on a stick,
it is available in several flavours, including
cardamom, honey and pistachio, or cinnamon,
clove and honey.
The robust list of more than 20 boutique
produced brews includes the rewarding
Mexican Negra Modelo.
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Horn Please
each chocolate, inhale the delicious aromas of
Madagascan vanilla, dark rum or red fruits, and
really admire the care and attention to detail
that has gone into making each and every
creation special.
Vasalissa is all about decadence and
indulgence.
www.vasalissa.com
ATELIER AMARO
Warsaw, Poland
Atelier Amaro is a true gem on Europe’s
culinary map, showcasing modern molecular
gastronomy at its finest.
Chef-owner Wojciech Modest Amaro describes
his cuisine as “where nature meets science”,
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It is the smooth and silky texture that makes
Vasalisa chocolate so amazing. Whilst the
raw cocoa beans are not processed in-house,
Vasalissa ensures only the highest grade chocolate slabs are used. Single origin chocolate is
sourced from South America, then roasted and
processed in Belgium. The slabs are then sent
to Buenos Aires to be melted down, flavoured
and moulded.
The impossibly pretty interior is truly exquisite.
It is resplendent with huge, mirrored panels
set in walls painted marzipan green, centrepiece chandeliers, marble countertops and
elegant French furnishings. The centre table
displays a scrumptious selection of truffles
and chocolate, presented on pristine white
plates rather than behind glass. Here one can
read the exotic names and ingredients used in
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edible flowers, wild game and mushrooms
are resurrected to their former place. Meals
employ traditional Polish plants like nettles
and beetroot in surprising, highly creative
dishes, including juniper ice cream hugging
a miniature chocolate cake with chestnuts.
However, dishes change almost daily, so
expect the unexpected.
The bread basket includes Amaro’s famous
offering made with burnt organic hay.
All of the dishes are works of art, a mindblowing array of amazing food. There are
solely tasting menus on offer, with food being
served in three, five or eight courses, known
here as “moments”.
The dinner itself is like a ceremony, with each
moment preceded by a professional introduction by the waiter.
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and is rightfully proud of having produced the
first restaurant in the country to land a coveted
Michelin star.
The underlying concept is a celebration of
simplicity, with the produce almost entirely
sourced from the meadows and mountains,
forests and lakes of Poland. While the construction of the dishes is often elaborate and almost
forensic in approach, there is nothing pointlessly showy about the dishes.
Amaro intends to move Polish ingredients
and cuisine beyond the pierogi, and bases his
cuisine on an interest in old Polish royal dishes
and a desire to showcase long-forgotten
ingredients.
The kitchen itself is a laboratory in which
experiments with long-forgotten Polish ingredients are employed. Chokeberries, wild herbs,
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One Canada Square
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Atelier Amaro
D.O.M.
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Mugaritz
Photo: Tuukka Koski
Maaemo
Atelier Amaro
One Canada Square
Housed in a stylish glass cube overlooking the
lovely Agrykola Park, the smartly understated
interior features a chic monochromatic décor.
The service is meticulous and unobtrusive.
Amaro has created a restaurant that is an absolute must for diehard foodies visiting Warsaw.
www.atelieramaro.pl
ONE CANADA SQUARE
London, United Kingdom
The restaurant and cocktail bar’s name pays
tribute to the iconic 244-metre, 50-storey office
tower in which it is located at the heart of
Canary Wharf.
Open from 7 a.m. weekdays for breakfast, business lunches, post-work cocktails and relaxed
dinners, which are accompanied by live music
on the baby grand piano by West End-trained
pianists. The leisurely Saturday brunches
served right up to 5 p.m. are a must.
The chef is Jamie Dobbin, former head chef
at The Club at The Ivy. Dobbin has succeeded
in merging food traditions, techniques and
flavours from Europe, America and Asia, to
bring the very best out of the seasonal, homegrown produce.
The menu ranges from the raw – steak tartare,
ceviches and carpaccios – to classic steaks
produced from meat that has been aged 45
days. The Billingsgate Fish Market, barely
five minutes away, guarantees the best fish
anywhere in town.
The wine menu is presented on a tablet that
allows diners to search for vintage and location while creating a shortlist before making
a final selection. The cocktail trolley offers an
impressive array of rare and premium spirits,
including William Laure Weller bourbon, of
which only a select number of bottles enter
the UK each year.
The interiors are by the renowned architectural
firm of David Collins Studio and are plush
and glamorous. They are 1920s-inspired, with
ox-blood leather for the bar and British racing
green for the dining room. These team nicely
with oak timber flooring and tables with a
delicate herringbone inlay.
The scene oozes decadent grandeur in its
proportions and decorative detailing, with
a sweeping staircase and three imposing
marble-wood columns.
www.onecanadasquarerestaurant.com
BODEGA CASA MONTAÑA
Valencia, Spain
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This bodega and tapas bar has been a
Valencian institution since 1836. The atmospheric place is beautiful and authentic, with
a marble bar and large wine barrels. Owner
Emiliano Garcia, a qualified sommelier,
together with his son, Alejandro, manage the
place in an exquisite way.
Classic dishes are prepared using artisan ingredients sourced from all around the country.
The huge variety of tapas is fabulous.
Do not pass on the fresh anchovies from
Santoña, patatas bravas, michirones (thick
and meaty fava beans), codfish croquettes, ajo
arriero (a garlic and potato puree), and txistorra (a Basque sausage).
The impressive wine list features over 1,000
labels. The cellar holds 20,000 bottles, and is
one of the most complete and selective in
Spain. Casa Montaña actually owns vineyards
in Valencia and Utiel-Requena.
To cap off a wonderful meal, ask the waiter
for the chocolate truffles. They are simply
heavenly.
Food is served in the busy front bar, lined with
wine barrels, and in the more spacious back
room, but the best table is squeezed into a
space between the two. Patrons must duck
under the bar to get to it, next to the kitchen
and the jamón-carving station.
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Bodega Casa Montaña
The bodega is a popular meeting place for
locals, intellectuals, artists and bohemians,
as well as visiting foodies. The atmosphere is
relaxed and jovial. Service is friendly, helpful
and informed.
For the best in authentic tapas in Valencia, with
a great ambience, seek this place out.
www.emilianobodega.com
D.O.M.
São Paulo, Brazil
using native Brazilian ingredients in haute
cuisine has mesmerised the continent.”
The tapas-esque tasting menu affords the
full experience. The 4-course or 8-course
tasting menus are a journey through Brazil’s
various ecosystems. Eating at D.O.M. provides
a taste of the diverse natural ingredients Brazil
has to offer, coming from all the 26 provinces
and the world’s greatest ecosystem – the
Amazon Rainforest.
The menus can be paired with wines or interestingly flavoured waters.
From an overwhelmingly beautiful green
tomato jelly studded with edible flowers,
micro-herbs and tomato seeds, to a splendid
dish of raw scallops with wafer slices of palm
heart and a dressing of scallop coral spiked
with horseradish, each dish is a masterpiece.
But the unseasoned ant on a small pineapple cube is undoubtedly the most talked
about dish.
The restaurant is decorated in a modern, yet
classic understated style, letting the food take
centre stage. Staff is very knowledgeable,
friendly and discreet.
A true destination dining experience,
D.O.M. should be on the list of all globehopping gastronomes.
www.domrestaurante.com.br
MUGARITZ
San Sebastián, Spain
Since opening in 1998, Mugaritz has become
an institution of contemporary gastronomy. A
groundbreaking 2-star Michelin restaurant, it
has long been considered one of Spain’s most
influential and Andoni Luis Aduriz is regarded
as one of the country’s most talented and
creative chefs.
The restaurant has featured in The World’s 50
Best Restaurants for the past nine years.
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D.O.M. is a world-coveted foodie destination
that excites lovers of haute cuisine and has,
since 2006, been included on The World's 50
Best Restaurants list.
Owner Alex Atala is, in equal parts, chef, historian and botanist, who has brought his knowledge to showcase unique and native Brazilian
ingredients in his contemporary dishes in a
highly original style.
Atala wants to capture the very essence of
Brazil, with all its flavours, colours, textures
and smells, which he allows to waft from his
kitchen. The restaurant pays homage to the
culinary best of Atala’s beloved home nation.
Aided by scientists and anthropologists, Atala
discovers unknown ingredients, using an
iridescent rainforest insect, Amazonian fish,
and delicate jungle herbs in his dishes. His
immersive cooking style, in which he displays
an instinctive ability to bring previously
unutilised Amazonian ingredients to life,
is a superlative experience. Steeped in
classical techniques, yet distinctly and
uniquely Brazilian, attention to detail and
precise plating are hallmarks of Atala’s
innovative creations.
An imaginative and edgy chef, in 2013, Atala
was named one of Time magazine's 100 most
influential people in the world for taking on
“the enormous task of shaping a better food
culture for Latin America. His philosophy of
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D.O.M.
new dishes to be presented in the coming
season. These culinary proposals go through
three menu rehearsals, where Andoni and the
front-of-house staff sample the ideas. These
are moments of great tension where ideas are
ripped open to see if they are viable, unexpected and creative. It is a demanding process
that results in the dishes that will ultimately
delight patrons.
www.mugaritz.com
TICKETS
Barcelona, Spain
The Michelin-starred restaurant is the brainchild of Albert Adrià, who devised some of the
legendary restaurant El Bulli's iconic dishes.
Albert Adrià also brought in his brother Ferran
Adrià – one of the world's most influential
chefs – along with the Iglesias brothers who
own Rías de Galicia, an emblematic seafood
restaurant in Barcelona.
Ticket’s mission is to be a tapas restaurant
serving the best possible ingredients and most
inventive tapas in Barcelona. This is a culinary
adventure with divine food, showcasing
sophisticated allusions to avant-garde techniques, and an homage to traditional cuisine.
The entire menu is modern, the ingredients of
the utmost quality, the association and devotion to the land and sea surrounding Catalonia
notable and celebrated. Yet the foundation
of many dishes is clearly rooted in familiar
Spanish classics: Andalusian, Galician and
Catalan recipes that one has found in neighbourhood bars for decades.
Diners will be wowed by the Adria cuisine
trademark – innovation and artistic expression – but also by the intensity and purity of
the flavours and delicacy of the textures. Go
for the surprise menu where there will be
some simple questions to answer. For example:
"Shrimp, oysters or lobster – what is your
preference?"
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Andoni Luis Aduriz has been called a “genius”
by Food and Wine Magazine, and “a cult figure
among Europe’s young avant-garde Chefs”.
Located in the hills of Errenteria, a 20-minute
drive from San Sebastián in the north-easternmost part of Spain's Basque region, the beautiful setting is appropriately idyllic, a reflection
of the emphasis on nature in Andoni’s technoemotional cuisine that utilises scientific techniques to accentuate each season’s bounty.
Mugaritz's menu is deeply rooted in its
pastoral environment, using pristine products
from field, forest and sea around Andoni’s
beloved Basque region/Country. The restaurant also grows herbs in the adjacent garden.
Andoni marries principles of modernist
gastronomy and kitchen alchemy to elevate
food into a dining experience that is elaborate
yet restrained, refined and clever in both taste
and concept.
The culinary approach is naturalistic and
modern, and the sublime cooking is delicate,
nuanced and cerebral. These are flavours,
textures and concepts to ponder and savour.
The dishes are evocative, exciting and always
surprising.
The chef playfully uses trompes l’oeils – culinary tricks of the eye. The Edible Stones – one
of his trademark dishes – is evidence of this.
They are in fact petite potatoes covered in a
grey edible clay crust.
Diners are treated to a personalised menu
of 23 dishes with 7- or 8-bite wonders. The
service is impeccable and knowledgeable.
The restaurant closes for four months every
year, during which time the team devises
its next menu. The main kitchen becomes a
laboratory for tests and trials for more than
ten chefs who work with the senior R&D team
members.
One of the kitchen walls is covered with
nearly 100 drawings, which are the ideas
chefs need to decode and shape into the 50
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Mugaritz
Photo: Moises Torne
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Tickets
Or patrons could say: "I eat everything but roasted peppers."
From this, the restaurant builds a personalized menu for
the table.
Examples of tapas include exploding olives (an El Bulli legacy),
mini airbags stuffed with Manchego cheese, cannelloni of
avocado stuffed with crab, finely sliced home-salted tuna belly
painted with cured ham fat of jamon de toro, spiced tomato
tartare served with bread crisps, eggshells filled with a potato
cream, truffle and egg, or cornet with tuna and nori.
Designed like a fairground complete with candyfloss machines
and ice cream carts, the décor is whimsical, full of colour, and
cheerfully theatrical.
There are six open cooking stations, bar counter seating, heavy
wooden tables on one side, and bright wrought iron chairs
and light coloured tables on the other. Colourful globes are
suspended from the ceiling and wait staff wear coat-tails.
From precise preparation, to artful presentation and divine
food, here is a playground for tapas and sweets no food lover
should miss.
www.es.bcn50.org
LA COMISARIA
Valencia, Spain
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This is an absolute gem of a place, a small and intimate restaurant serving tasty tapas-style dishes with a decidedly stylish
twist. The food is simply fantastic and super fresh.
The cuisine is an exciting Mediterranean and Asian fusion. The
inventiveness, presentation, delicacy and balance of flavours,
plus the expert use of regional produce, all influenced by Asian
flavouring, is exceptional.
Owner-chef Eddie Phillips Blanco creates his devilishly innovative dishes in the open kitchen and takes great care with each
plate he sends out. The beautifully presented food epitomises
small works of visual art in every dish.
Do not miss those fun peta zetas desserts – Spanish candy that
produces little explosions when put in the mouth.
Both the ever-evolving food and the astutely selected wines
reward diners. Hospitality is tremendous, from start to finish.
www.lacomisaria.com
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