THE MEN`S - Villa Magna

MAR/APR
2013
THE
MEN’S
ISSUE
$50.00
14 DAYS
14 DAYS OF FOOD & WINE IN PORTUGAL AND SPAIN
A balmy Mediterranean climate combined with exotic Moorish architecture, intricately gilded cathedrals and superb winemakers producing everything
from nuanced port to spicy rioja make this Iberian Peninsula itinerary ideal for food and wine aficionados. Start in northern Portugal’s history-rich city of
Porto, savor rare vintages and terraced vineyard vistas in the sunny Douro Valley and discover the soulful side of photogenic Lisbon; enjoy an authentic
evening tapas tour, a private cooking lesson and an artist-led exploration of Madrid’s top art collections before venturing into the heart of Andalusia with
exclusive experiences in multifaceted Córdoba, alluring Granada and romantic Seville.
BY DONNA HEIDERSTADT
120
DOURO VALLEY / PORTUGAL
BACCHUS SUITE /
THE YEATMAN
AERIAL VIEW
/ AQUAPURA
DOURO VALLEY
LUÍS I BRIDGE / PORTO
1
ARRIVE IN PORTO
Meet your Ker & Downey guide at Oporto
Airport and head to The Yeatman, an
2
EXPLORE THE MINHO REGION
Join your guide for an excursion to the
Minho Region, where you’ll visit Guimaraes,
3
DISCOVER THE DOURO VALLEY
Depart Porto by luxury sedan for the Douro
Region, the center of Portuguese wine
82-room wine hotel on the south bank of
a city considered the cradle of Portuguese
making, with a stop en-route in the town of
the river Douro offering exquisite views of
nationality. At its center is UNESCO World
Amarante to visit the photogenic São Gonçalo
beautiful Porto. Once you’ve had time to
Heritage site Oliveira Square and the
Bridge and Cathedral. As you enter the
relax in the 1,615-square-foot Bacchus
15th-century Palace of the Dukes of
Douro Valley, famous for its dramatic ter-
Suite (about $1,164 a night), you’ll be picked
Braganza, which houses valuable artifacts
raced vineyards set above the scenic Douro
up for a half-day private tour visiting Porto’s
that include Pastrana maritime tapestries
River, you’ll board a classic wooden yacht
significant monuments: Lavishly gilded St.
and East India Company porcelain. Continue
chartered for your private use. Enjoy the
Francis Church, the Sé Cathedral and the
on to Casa de Juste, where delightful
sights as you lunch on deck while some of
pedestrian shopping area of St. Catherine’s
owners Fernando and Ana Guedes will
Portugal’s most stunning vineyard vistas
Street. Return to the Historic Port Wine
share details of their historic manor house
envelop you. It’s a serene prequel to your
Cellar District via the Luís I Bridge—one of
(it has been in the family for 600 years)
stay at Aquapura Douro Valley, a salmon-
six spanning the river—to tour the barrel ag-
during a lunch and a walk through their
hued 19th-century manor house with
ing rooms at renowned port producer Taylor
15-acre estate. Spend the rest of the
dramatic modern décor and relaxing river
Fladgate. Taste numerous vintages, among
afternoon relaxing at The Yeatman, before
views. As sunset washes everything in gold,
them the rare 150-year-old Scion Port. Back
enjoying a traditional Portuguese dinner
sip a luscious Douro red from the hotel’s
at the hotel, continue to savor the region’s
(try Alheira, a bread and chicken sausage)
extensive wine list on the umbrella-studded
flavors with an eight-course, wine-paired
at Dom Tonho, a favorite of local business-
terrace before dining on Mediterranean-
dinner at Michelin-starred Yeatman Res-
men (John Malkovich and Alanis Morissette
inspired cuisine at Almapura, one of two
taurant, which combines classic ambience
have dined here, too). End your day with a
restaurants on property.
with creative contemporary cuisine.
private tour of the Stock Exchange Palace
Aquapura Douro Valley: General Manager
The Yeatman: General Manager Miguel
(Palacio da Bolsa) as you wander through
Miguel Sìmöes de Almeida, 351-254-660-
Velez, 351-22-013-3120; miguel.velez@
two centuries of history and marvel at the
600; msalmeida@aquapurahotels.com;
theyeatman.com; www.theyeatman.com
kaleidoscopic Arab Room.
www.aquapurahotels.com
DOWNLOAD EXCLUSIVE DESTINATION GUIDES AT www.elitetraveler.com/destinationguides
121
14 DAYS
4
RELAX AND UN-WINED
The best part of visiting a wine region is savoring it—and with nothing on your itinerary
6
LISBON BY LAND & SEA
Today, discover the rich history and architecture of Lisbon, a captivating city set on seven
8
A TASTE OF MADRID
A panoramic guided drive takes in 17th-century Baroque buildings, such as the City Hall
beyond eating, drinking and relaxing, Aqua-
hills. Start at hilltop St. George’s Castle to
and Plaza Mayor; contemporary designs,
pura will ensure you are pampered for the
enjoy a panoramic city view, and continue
including Jean Nouvel’s annex to the Reina
next 24 hours. After waking in the spacious,
through Alfama, Lisbon’s oldest and most
Sofia modern art museum; and the chic 19th-
light-filled Panoramic Suite (from about
atmospheric quarter, where Portugal’s best
and 20th-century facades of the Salamanca
$798 a night), with its two full bathrooms
Fado singers perform. Then it’s off to Belem,
neighborhood. Visit the Royal Palace, resi-
and dramatic king-sized canopy bed, you
where wealth from 15th- and 16th-century
dence to Kings of Spain past, before taking a
can choose to relax at the tranquil vineyard-
seafaring exploits built the extravagant
guided walk to experience daily life in Madrid.
view pool or enjoy a massage at the thermal
Jeronimos Monastery and Belem Tower.
Stroll through a local food market, stop at
spa with panoramic sauna and heated
Lunch is aboard the Santa Barbara, as you
jewelry designer Helena Rohner’s atelier and
waterbeds. Later, challenge your partner
cruise toward Cascais, a town at the edge of
peruse the exquisite fans at Casa de Diego.
to a game of tennis on the grass court or
the Atlantic from which sailors set off on voy-
Later, visit the home of creative Spanish chef
sample the Douro’s best wines in the strik-
ages of discovery. While here, dine at Porto
and world traveler Pilar Latorre for a conviv-
ingly contemporary bar. If visiting a few local
Santa Maria, lauded for transforming fresh
ial cooking lesson as you prepare a four-
quintas (wine estates) appeals, Aquapura
local fish into a gastronomic feast, before
course dinner and enjoy it over conversation
can arrange for a leisurely excursion.
returning to Lisbon along the Estoril Coast.
with Pilar and her husband René.
DOURO RIVER / DOURO VALLEY
ROYAL SUITE / OLISSIPPO LAPA PALACE
CITY VIEW / LISBON
BELEM TOWER / LISBON
5
122
EN-ROUTE TO LISBON
On your way to Portugal’s capital, visit a trio
of medieval towns: Viseu, which dates to the
7
MADRID VIA THE ALENTEJO
Your last day in Portugal is a scenic one as
you travel to Madrid via the golden plains of
9
SPANISH MASTERS AND TAPAS TOUR
Today, immerse yourself in two of Madrid’s
specialties: Art and tapas. In the morn-
Roman era and is home to a 12th-century ca-
the Alentejo Region, known for its castles,
ing, Pablo Alvarez de Toledo, a prominent
thedral and beautifully embellished facades;
Roman ruins, olive oil and wine. At Evora,
Spanish painter and art professor, will offer
Bussaco, set amid woods planted by Carmel-
a medieval walled city that is home to the
expert commentary during a private tour of
ite friars in the early 1600s, where you’ll lunch
Temple of Diana, refuel at Tasquinha do
the city’s top art museums. At the Prado,
at João Vaz Restaurant in the ornate Bussaco
Oliveira, a cozy traditional restaurant run by
learn about the life and work of Spanish
Palace; and Obidos, a walled array of white-
the owner and his wife. Cross the border into
masters Velázquez, Goya and El Greco, and
washed houses decorated with vibrant flower
Spain and head to the capital, where you’ll
view some of the world’s great paintings. At
boxes. In Lisbon, check into 19th-century
check into the 3,121-square-foot Real Suite
Reina Sofia, your host will detail the works
Olissippo Lapa Palace, like Sting, Bono and
($20,000 a night) at Hotel Villa Magna, a 150-
of surrealist Dali and Spanish icon Picasso,
Cher have done. The elaborate Royal Suite
room property with classic-meets-contem-
whose 1937 masterpiece Guernica is on
with terrace views of the Tagus River awaits
porary style (Angelina Jolie, Brad Pitt, Johnny
display. After an afternoon at leisure, your
(from about $3,068 a night).
Depp and Hugh Jackman are fans). Later in
evening host will lead you on an informal
Olissippo Lapa Palace: General Manager
the evening, relax over a hosted tapas dinner.
“tapas tour” to sample regional specialties,
Fernando Maia, 351-213-949-494;
Hotel Villa Magna: General Manager Charles
such as simple yet flavorful seafood from
fernando.maia@olissippohotels.com;
L. Morris, 34-91-587-1234; charles.morris@
southern Spain at Casa Curro Taberna and
www.olissippohotels.com
villamagna.es; www.villamagna.es
classic tapas dishes at cozy Taberna Bilbao.
10
A JOURNEY TO ANDALUSIA
This morning head to fascinating Córdoba,
once the capital of the Moorish kingdom of
12
VISIONS OF PAST AND PRESENT
Spend the morning at leisure, enjoying the
hotel’s spa and sauna, before your guide
14
STALLIONS, SHERRY AND A SUBLIME VIEW
Andalusia also prizes its horsemanship and
its sherry, and this morning you’ll visit Jerez
Al-Andalus. Discover its many cultural sites,
escorts you to an exclusive epicurean deli-
de la Frontera, a city known for both. Attend
including the Mezquita, a cathedral-mosque
catessen close to the Plaza de los Campos,
an elaborately costumed performance—often
comprising a labyrinth of more than 500 red
where its knowledgeable owner will lead
described as equestrian ballet—at the Royal
and white arched columns. You’ll also visit
you through mini-course tastings of local
Andalusian School of Equestrian Art, fol-
the city’s 14th-century Synagogue, first-
artisanal cheeses, cured meats and hams
lowed by a private tapas-paired sherry tasting
century Roman Bridge and the Alcázar with
from the Sierra Nevada, extra virgin olive
at Emilio Lustau Winery, maker of fine sherry
its Moorish-inspired gardens. Spend the rest
oils and classic Andalusian dishes—accom-
since 1896. After returning to Seville, enjoy an
of the afternoon lounging poolside at Palacio
panied by wonderful wines and sherries.
exclusive dinner on Atico Dos Fuentes, the
del Bailio, a tranquil 53-room palace-
Granada offers up one magical photo-op
terrace of a neo-Baroque palace owned by
turned-hotel whose 818-square-foot Grand
after another, so it’s the perfect spot to
Miguel Lasso de la Vega, the Viscount of Dos
Suite Loft (about $732 a night) is enchanting.
spend the afternoon with an English expat
Fuentes. The Viscount will join you (as he has
Palacio del Bailio: General Manager
photographer who will lead you on a photo
Tom Cruise and Cameron Diaz) to explain his
Veronique Timsonet, 34-957-49-8993;
safari that ensures you’ll depart Granada
family’s heritage as you spend your final night
gm.palaciodelbailio@hospes.com;
with a very personal view of this utterly
in Spain in this privileged setting overlooking
www.hospes.com
intriguing city.
the Cathedral and the Giralda.
ALHAMBRA / GRANADA
REAL SUITE / HOTEL
VILLA MAGNA
ROYAL SUITE / HOTEL ALFONSO XIII
SAN FERNANDO RESTAURANT /
HOTEL ALFONSO XIII
PRESIDENTIAL SUITE / PALACIO DE LOS PATOS
GRAND LOFT SUITE / PALACIO DEL BAILIO
11
GRANADA’S GRAND TREASURES
13
VIVA EL FLAMENCO!
151-room Hotel Alfonso XIII, A Luxury Col-
EXPLORING THE IBERIAN
PENINSULA IN VIP STYLE
the city. Moorish and Christian elements
lection Hotel, which opened in 1929 and just
Known for its global team of knowl-
abound, culminating in one of the gems of
completed a lavish renovation. Like Bruce
edgeable, bilingual guides, US-based
architecture: The Alhambra. Highlights of
Springsteen and Madonna, indulge in the
Ker & Downey creates bespoke jour-
this palatial 14th-century complex include
1,572-square-foot, modern Moorish-style
neys filled with extraordinary, hands-
the Arrayanes Courtyard and its reflecting
Royal Suite (from about $2,323 a night).
on experiences that go beneath the
pool, the delicately carved Court of Lions
An afternoon guided walking tour takes in
surface to truly inspire, attracting star
and the exquisitely landscaped Generalife
the historic Santa Cruz district, Seville’s
clients like Beyoncé Knowles and Jay-Z.
Gardens. Later, check in at Palacio de los
oldest and most atmospheric quarter. After
The luxury travel company works with
Patos, a stately 19th-century palace that
a dinner of modern Andalusian cuisine at
the most exclusive hotels and top local
now houses 42 elegant rooms—including the
the hotel’s San Fernando restaurant, enjoy
suppliers to deliver unparalleled itin-
Presidential Suite (about $679 a night) with
front-row seats at El Arenal, the city’s pre-
eraries; in Spain and Portugal, expect
soaring ceilings and a garden-view balcony,
mier flamenco venue.
a singular experience that blends the
where you will spend the next two nights.
Hotel Alfonso XIII: General Manager
region’s fascinating history with its
Palacio de los Patos: Director Marc Passola,
Carlo Suffredini, 34-954-91-7007;
welcoming and passionate people.
34-958-53-5790; gm.palaciopatos@hospes.
carlo.suffredini@starwoodhotels.com;
Contact: Vice President David Jones,
com; www.hospes.com
www.hotel-alfonsoxiii-seville.com
(281) 371-2500; djones@kerdowney.
After breakfast and a relaxing drive to
nearby Granada, take a walking tour of
Transfer to orange tree-lined Seville and the
com; www.kerdowney.com
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